Period Spotting On Day 9

TO MADRID TO GATHER THE GOVERNMENT PAID THE COST FOR PROVINCIAL ASSISTANCE IN THE INSANE ASYLUM OF SAN Baudilio. (1899)

These unpleasant scenes staged by Catalan politicians, ultimately going to Madrid to ask the national government to convey them without delay the money owed to them and therefore they belong, based on agreements taken as a day to finance the devolved services, not the result of current situations. According to a report in the newspaper Barcelona "La Vanguardia", in mid 1899, it appears that this "custom" longstanding. See:

"The Express went to Madrid last night's commission Corporation that manages provincial government about the heading of contributions from the province, which is put into force in its entirety the decree establishing the Board of Harbor Works, and seek the government to be paid to the Provincial expenditure on dementia care in San Baudilio madhouse, where there are the four Catalan provinces.

The commission was formed Rumeu gentlemen, Vivo and Casademunt " (1)

(1) " La Vanguardia ", Friday, June 9, 1899.

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I want to talk about competition between the various championships. I speak of this, I received an email recently, complaining, rightly, the coincidence in time of 3 championships in the downtown area: The National Mus VIII town of Mora, R Marathon in Serranillos Valley Mus and Mus II Championship at The Hotel Dosa Pedrezuela.

In my opinion, the organizers would have to agree and review the disadvantages of such a coincidence, which reduces the number of participants, in some tournaments, to ridiculous levels.


I say this and nobody gets upset, there are certain tournaments that, by tradition and prestige, deserve to be respected in their time, in this case the town of Mora is now in its eighth year, has always held the first Saturday of June and future editions deserves, in my opinion, book your date. Hopefully


three championships, which I have referred, have a great success and I have to swallow my words, but I predict a low turnout.


A hug to all of you

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Bras

Bras Reach is unique. So clear. Take the road that winds from Rodez to Laguiole, pass Espalion Castle, perched on the hill, watch the time. Through the village and its famous cutlery, ascend the gentle grazing meadows, take the small road sign announcing a discreet and leads to the destination. And suddenly, at the top of the hill, find that sort of spacecraft, architectural element so absolutely foreign to the surrounding environment but yet somehow fits there. With all the Aubrac at your feet, surrounded by the greatest diversity of wild flowers and plants in Europe. A match there with other pilgrims, some coming, others wandering clueless after the banquet, the more you poke around. Cult sensation. Do not forget that Michel Bras was a pioneer of "gastrodestino." One of the first who dared to take his restaurant in a city and take it to the middle of nowhere. We wish him all sorts of misfortunes. Today his room is crammed into two daily services eight months of the year.

sect That feeling increases when one is led to his cell in this huge spaceship through a dark corridor, lit only by a few screens that show plants and wildflowers of the region. A striking modern but built ship twenty years ago. Time to relax, to test the magnificent natural soda label itself develops and Bras that fill the fridge. To browse among the writings left in the room. To enjoy the serene countryside and relax.


The sun. Start the parade. Everyone is heading to the bright conservatory serving the appetizer. The sunset over the valley is purple, spectacular, almost magical. The wind constantly whips plants and away the clouds of the hill. On the table beside the window, diners receive instructions for his mission: the excellent menu for appetizers, the menu, the wine list. It's showtime. Only interest me wines. The rest is clear: Menu Balade, the long course. Study and re-read as I try a sip of my extraordinary Domaine des Chênes L'Oublie Rancid Sec while thinking how can Sanlúcar and Roussillon are so close. Come the first few bites, his legendary coke-mouillette in honor of the boiled eggs that his mother prepared for him and the wonderful fine mushroom pie that must be tried to believe. Sommelier comes, great, great guy. Brief negotiation, questions and jokes, some instructions and walk into the room after passing through the kitchen.

The dining room is bright Bras, elongated like a ship, large, with only obstacles between tables and the valley. When sitting, everything is ready. Wine bottles rest on the table ready for its opening, a waiter presents the bread braid and husking by hand, aided by a napkin. Then bring more bread. Salted butter is from another planet. Serve the water "here better than the mineral." Simple, with choreography studied. Impeccable.


In the kitchen have come clear what most diners are not begging. The menu begins with the mythical gargouillou of young vegetables, herbs and grains. Whenever there is any doubt with these dishes become so famous, a certain fear of disappointment. Any hint of it indeed. It is a wonderful dish that combines over forty different items, cooked separately and in different textures and together again in harmony. A great dish that is composed of a light cream of Laguiole, a local cheese. The knife, according to local tradition, is maintained throughout the meal. Either by tradition, bad because some of the dishes takes sauces that dirty. A tiny detail to this writer but a little more flexibility would be appreciated. Then a surprising twist in a San Pedro menu sprinkled with semi-salted butter, asparagus - beautiful, like the rest of vegetables throughout the night - eggs and a vinaigrette and herbs somewhat disconcerting. Brilliant in some ways stranger on the other side. Perhaps misplaced.

The pace drops, long wait. Again superb foie gras "neither cold nor hot" grilled with herbs juice and flowers. Interesting work, hard to describe. More risk, certainly measured, with the first artichoke in a broth accompanying artichoke puree with shrimp and orange. Much game bittersweet and temperature contrast. Another break, this time even longer, a problem in the kitchen. Huge and amazing fat stuffed endive - rather than one species cottage cheese - skin of milk and juice Comprégnac truffles. An original dish, different truffles that taste a little something that adds a peculiar point terracing. Impeccable lamb dish with which we completed the first part of the menu: lamb rib Allaiton - tremendous, subtle beef, spicy - cooked with bone and gizzards with seeds and juice, almond pearl. Pause.


local cheeses Cart
very apparent to start the second half. However, some unexpected jab to the conservation of one. Nothing to blame a 18-month Laguiole extraordinary or the Perigord Cabécou excellent. Improper and unworthy to serve a table of this category a Fourme d'Ambert blue extremely dry which remained almost untouched on the plate without the floor manager or any of the waiters would be challenged by it. Important break in service. The wait is long. Much better desserts. For starters, the super famous coulant of 1981 in its current version consists of a liquid cake of gingerbread ice cream accompanied by candied ginger and licorice. Delicious. Without comparison with any of the versions I've tried before. The original beats all. Refreshing, though more conventional, green tea ice cream with candied plum, and a little bit heavier the strudel made caramel and orange zest with cream cheese and dates and orange blossom jelly and spices.


very funny and original cart cones served as a petit fours. Different ice creams and fruit combine to form study and involving a great climax to a great meal. And they are accompanied by a large coffee and a Calvados Adrien Camut Semainville Reserve Assemblage 25 years fabulous.

The wine list at a restaurant like Bras is, of course, extraordinary. Incomprehensible, therefore. Therefore it is essential to the assistance of a competent sommelier Sergio Calderón - Argentina - it is. Meet your letter, listen to the client, advising on the basis of taste, recommended and wet, not recommended if necessary. Neither more nor less than what you should ask a sommelier. In his hand went through a great Gauby Vielles Vignes 2006 Domaine Cotes du Roussillon - what great white wines produced in this area - with enormous potential, and a surprising Jean Marc Boillot "Les Roques" 2007, Vin de Pays d ' Oc wonderful, made with Roussanne and that one could be mistaken for one of the greats, a real discovery. Silky and elegant the Joseph Drouhin "Clos des Mouches' 2003 of Beaune, one of those that do often fail and the few that produces half bottles. Excellent service tarnished by the need to cool a few degrees between red wine and bad faces doubts usual in these matters to the north of the Pyrenees.

is hard to put a note to a service - of course - full of nice touches but not at all comparable to that of the great French restaurants. Leo specialized sites intended as a service "deliberately invite leisurely contemplation and quiet." Nearly four hours for a nine-course menu seems more than that. Large pauses that break the rhythm of the meal, diners are losing interest and force to compromise the wine service. I did not like.

I took my time to rest the feelings I was Bras. I do not doubt that Michel Bras is a great cook, a revolutionary, a teacher for one of the largest. Some of their dishes have gone beyond the time limits and are as bold and brilliant as twenty years ago. Very few chefs can boast of having placed a plate in the popular imagination of the restoration. And there is no doubt that Bras is a unique destination special. The set is bright, wonderful experience. But, above places, sunsets, detail, gifts, breakfast and poems here had come to dine at one of the best restaurants in the world. And there were too many loopholes. Bras perhaps has become more of a business an experience that in a restaurant. Not for nothing is easier to find on your website with online store knife or jam with the wine. Gives some impression that the phenomenon has transcended her kitchen Bras. Laguiole. Aubrac. A destination over a restaurant. Maybe.

Photos: Flickr Yukito Yamamoto.