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"monkfish and prawn tartare 31.00 euros ... no, are pesetas, 3,100 pesetas. "A few days ago I found myself reviewing old receipts with a restaurant bill Horcher October 1997. I looked at her with curiosity and nostalgia. A dinner for two, a major celebration, if I remember correctly an of the first big restaurant I paid from my pocket and secure the first one was absolutely beyond my powers. The final price, with its 7% included would be the 18,110 pesetas, with some details that stand out: two cups of coffee, six hundred ESP, a beer, five hundred twenty-five pesetas, dishes on average between 2,900 and 4,000 pesetas -17.5 and 24 euros respectively. It was, in short, a splendid dinner price, 109 euros, which earned me a genuine excess.

In January 2011 much has changed, these eighteen thousand pesetas would match today, more than likely, with the budget you should consider one person to dine at the proper high Alfonso XII, even though the wine was so modest as the average rioja "Horcher fourth year" that cost only a thousand pesetillas.

Among my papers I found an invoice from another classic Cuenca, the Inn Hanging Houses, a stronghold of the Torres family and probably the only restaurant there was some level by the time of Cuenca. In this case the comparison is easier because the letter is immutable and has published the prices on its website. If the lamb was worth 2,460 pesetas then, is now 22 euros, the partridge has gone from 1,872 pesetas to 18 euros. Of all the examples I found in my old wallet, is probably the case more restrained, perhaps from being in an economically depressed city and the tourism has come to a trickle.

If there is a parameter of "inflation hospitality" at least in regard to restaurants, "we are talking about a range that goes from 60% to 100% increase over the fourteen years. Growth was more or less aligned with the curve of income per capita during that decade, 1998, 2008 - In a little less than eleven thousand euros per person arrived at nineteen thousand or so, riding on giant with feet of clay of the real estate industry . Even in those days of wine and roses had a slight difference, but not enough to scare away customers.

However, the situation is reversed and our per capita income has fallen by 6% in the last two years is just as in the eighteen thousand euros. Trend is likely to soften, but it appears that the downward trend will continue for a few semesters. Many restaurants have been caught English in the wrong context, a society that is not what it was. Prices are equal to or greater than those of five years ago, give only to grow-with the result that we know: empty dining especially during the week and in restaurants with pretensions. While the hotel industry worldwide is dumped at a fixed price menus, in Paris the formulas are a classic, and even the Michelin-starred restaurants struggle to fill the room, at least during lunch - Le Bristol in Paris offers a menu at 85 euros, and a few hundred meters Les Ambassadeurs competes with another 68 euros, in New York Eleven Madison Park stays in the $ 60 and includes London Sketch includes wine for 35 pounds, the cards in Spain are surprisingly CPI growing by customers come or not.

salaries frozen or low-less consumer-price inflation and a slight period of plenty, go to a restaurant today costs much more in relative terms than fifteen years ago. Misdiagnosis.

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The gastronomic Inflation man who never visited El Bulli


suddenly awoke, but did not open his eyes, still dreamed dinner the previous day. It was hot and cold at the same time and yet ... water. Salada. "He had spent Ferrán with salt or any additives and so was the scent of salt even over the past memories of chocolates and prepared GT-style boss?

No. Impossible. Everything was perfect, from the reception, including the assumption by the floor manager of the diner who was alone but had booked for two would be served dinner of two people at a time, until their farewell dream, with "the best cook? across the Mediterranean world sharing conversation, future plans and a soft drink. The Mediterranean, and in the middle of autumn, the land claimed his tribute, then return in the form of sand, creating a foam probably made him think the genius of Montjoi.

His head ached! How could I have a hangover with a GT very soft and just a dozen glasses of different wines, which had been traveling around the world in just a few hours? Suddenly, he felt the water had he stayed in the tub again? "Sought to make himself an infusion? He opened his eyes, fearing that doing so memories of tastes, smells and textures that had lived doubly dissipate as a foam. The light tore his eyes with a piercing flame how could it be that the lamp will illuminate the face?

Then he realized.

He was in the car.

The car was in the water, flooding slowly as the sun lit up the dawn and, for some reason, he could not move. Does the drink and food of El Bulli had stunned him enough to pull off the road? At least, he thought he would die after having tasted a dream, the dream of a lifetime gourmand, who had only reached after several attempts, the achievement of which the backup-so-gleefully had shared in various posts in participating ...

And then, only then, while the water was literally on the neck, he said. He reminded that other blogger with whom he had been to perform the rite of going to the seafood restaurant Roses; that another blogger had no reservation but was happy for him and he had insisted that as a digestive try a rum from Trinidad he brought himself. He recalled his dismay, the blow ... And then he realized, and submerged, that was dying a few meters from his dream without going to El Bulli, and wept and wept even under water without being comforted to think that someday he fishes that would feed into cooked by the master.

When next morning the local police gave notice to the divers of the Autonomous to extract water, not surprised that only a few hours the body as if he were already more than a day on the water. They had already seen before: the delights that ate and drank in El Bulli's bodies became a kind of candy to fish, and surely these foams the devil made to disintegrate faster.

It was not long until the usurper would end up in hospital, not because it corroded the blame, but because they had dinner for two at El Bulli and could not tell. He ended his days screaming that he had eaten for two people in El Bulli, but even as a young doctoral student in psychiatry tried to corroborate the relentless Juli database confirmed that no, this man never been to El Bulli.

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Gastromusts


Enter my kitchen had become a hell. In just 10 square meters piled dozens of pots, most of them useless. Espumero siphon, wok going through a cast iron fondue, the Silpat or a phallic-looking tome to warm sausages. Even the microwave, large and cornered, degraded milk heater, disturbing me with their presence. This crisis

gastroexistencial surely had to do with my own evolution as a cook. I realized that more needed less to cook and me these sophisticated instruments began to seem silly to gastroesnobs . Terrified I thought that phrase could sign my mother, so I think twice, redecorating my life and my kitchen and started to collect those gadgets that actually used, which lead me to a desert island, with which it can to open a mine or shave my dog. In short, my gastromusts .

• Casserole Le Creuset Cast Iron : A capacitor of heat, temperature stable, can get even cooking, the famous chup-chup. Worth a bundle, but any gastrobloguero know you can get enough Discounted Price in Ventaprivada Buyvip or if you have a little patience to wait for the opportunity.


• fine mesh strainer Lacor : The brand does not matter much, but the thickness of the mesh itself. I use it for everything, remove the residual water to the canned tomatoes and salad, drain the pasta once cooked or pass the cream of potato to leave as fine as Robuchon.


• Arcos potato peeler: The taste of my in-laws imposed by the potato in my daily operations a tool that would allow me to process potatoes at full speed. With this little instrument Fan 3 potatoes per minute, which is a record if we consider with a knife -1 potato ratio would be reversed every three minutes. Galician basic perimeter and family.


• cutting boards Legitim Ikea : From a permanent material, are easy to clean and are worth two euros. Little more can you say except the fact of having two can afford to have lost one thing that happens to me often.


• cooker Magefesa : In my early days as a chef, my principles would not let me use it, but a sudden loss of purchasing power, higher electricity insidious and regret and suspicion that some funds and oxtail dishes, "do not lose too much or are directly better, made me reflect on the gastroconcepto -one that emanates from the gastrofilosofía and lead to gastrotrascendencia and gastroherencia both - with a notable influence on my culinary techniques, including use of the express.


• corkscrew claws : After testing all possible versions of a corkscrew, I found this kind of enoforceps . Easily removed bottle caps of any age without destroying them. A must for wine lovers of a certain age and to amaze the people princesses bathed in romantic dinners Marqués de Cáceres rosé.


• lace knife arches and onion- : In sharp enough, well balanced weight-base for a knife, do not have the same quality as a ceramic knife or, of course, that these wonders of Japanese knives would cut a hair in the air. However they are well priced and avoid the risk of cutting a finger on the slightest mistake. For stoves not especially skilled.


• Vacuum packing Lay: This study. Although the percentage of vacuum achieved is poor, do not believe that more than 98% - I would be very difficult to distinguish between fresh fish and other frozen and vacuum packed with the pileup, on the other side reasonably cheap, about 80 euros. Suitable for those who purchase fish on Saturday all week and for connoisseurs who buy large pieces or quantities impossible to consume in one sitting.


• Kologn Kitchen Scale: A progressive afrancesamiento leads me to measure everything that echo in the pan. Basic pastry and bakery and aversions to improvisation.


• Mastrad temperature sensor : I could not make me not a steak without the probe, if it had sufficient accuracy would use to take my temperature for myself. The Mastrad is considerably more expensive than Ikea vs -35 euros. 7 euros, "but much more robust, accurate. It allows to measure even the temperature of boiling oil without fear of breaking-of Ikea and took a couple of casualties. Essential for the paranoid firing points among those who I am.

Needless to say, my kitchen became a friendly place, a minimalist, almost feng-shui. Because finally, after all, what else is the Thermomix but a blender with heat, nothing can be done with a pan, Moulinex and a fine sieve.