Santceloni is not a pretty town, or at least are not street leading from the Mediterranean motorway at Can Fabes. Everything changes when go through the restaurant door. The atmosphere becomes warmer, it helps to contrast with the cold sweeping the region of Montseny. As I said, the feeling from the front desk is friendly with that so hard to achieve simplicity and good taste at a time. I vividly remember the high Can Fabes, just five years ago, filled to the brim, businessmen with his tie and gold business card between the decoration of Tapies. Things have changed, we are the first to arrive at our little reserved but today weekday November 2010 will not reach many more customers and almost more people in the brigade that provides the great service. "Quiet, quiet, I think, when I comes to mind that phrase I've ever read or heard Santi Santamaría, " the clock does not go to Can Fabes ." Perhaps one
stop the rush to the entrance, but the arrival of Xavier Pellicer, one of the best cooks I've known, opens up the possibilities of finding a new Can Fabes, which he hoped had inherited part of which was his kitchen Abac, modern and classic, always elegant, perfectly reflected in the book Abac's Kitchen: Xavier Pellicer -. The thing is hardly better start with a selection of breads among which a loaf of peasant - one very similar to the cover photograph of Baker's Apprentice of Reinhart - probably the best bread I've ever tasted in a restaurant. And a great bread is a difficult thing to do, a declaration of intent.
-228 autumn menu starts with a Euro-bread sticks wrapped with a good acorn ham. No low level with foie Pellicer this product works well, "nor with the curd with hedgehogs. Marinated scallops is rich, and while nice, I liked least a kind of crunchy rabbit pasta. I seem sensational both mushrooms gill-season with different temperatures and texture-like pumpkin raw, boiled, roasted and fried "with squid. If we consider as a parameter to measure the complexity of a dish, the latter would be close to outstanding. Strange and almost unpleasant to pil pil with clams of his "friend Laureno" - Laureano Oubiña - with beans, beet leaves and roots. They just take advantage of the good bivalves that are lost in a strange background, and despite the name, somewhat linked. Maintains
menu is in general a high level in the appetizers and starters, but are rare these days-times-tapas chefs, below the main courses are even better. Design good major is only available to top chefs and a unique product based on both the gold, according to the waiter, the port of Blanes, with brioche and crisp as the duck blood mieral with braised fennel and honey sauce with aromatic, are dishes to remember. The duck, deep flavor, a marvel, is presented in the table whole, then carve and certainly use their juice to finish the sauce.
Nothing, however, I have the dessert or the gorgonzola with pear sauce that precedes them. The cheese is too cold, the only failure of performance, and desserts are light, refreshing, but I hardly remember the presentation of petit fours and a strawberry or strawberry soup with ice cream. The wine list, as the menu itself is very expensive, given the choice we hit the mountain and throw it more or less luxurious options: the Altenberg of Bergheim Cru Brand 2001 to 120 euros or Jaboulet La Chapelle 97, to 185 euros. Fine jewelry price tags, of course. The sommelier, Juan Carlos Ibáñez, I found a professional with clear ideas, it is not easy to separate the Alsatian white wine, a full and round, ripe, a red gauge of La Chapelle. We recommended to do the Bass Berg Smaragd 2004 -125 euros, a riesling still vibrant, fresh acid and finally ended up winning in complexity to become a great wine.
Can Fabes know all the springs of the liturgy and the great food you can top it off, for example, a glass of Armagnac from Domaine de Jaurrey Laberdolive 79 -32 euros. Stratospheric prices at the level of some of the temples triestrellados of Paris, great product, superb performance and a high level of service, at Can Fabes you can enjoy a lot, I enjoyed it very much, "Santi Santamaria has raised a great restaurant. However, as happens in Spain, my tie does not look as much as five years ago and my credit card has expired. It will therefore be a unique opportunity in many years, in the strict sense of the word. A great experience in absolute terms. Table illustrating
: White spotted red Antoni Tàpies.
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