A El Bulli, in December 2010, he gets into a zig-zag wrapped in a sea of \u200b\u200bdarkness. I imagined a thousand times reaching Cala Montjoi and today I find it difficult to recognize the house, he had seen in many photographs twilight, at dusk, the sign of El Bulli, a tattoo of light in the door. Inside, Juli Soler croons, probably happy with the final beating Barca has dealt to Real Madrid and service, tic-tac, we collect your coat, leads to the kitchen where a lot stacked of chefs who, like an anthill, work quickly and neatly huge steel geometric lines. Production lines. There goes Ferrán, always willing to talk briefly to take a picture. Today, unlike Soler, go with an aspect between tense and tired. As happens with the surrounding me, I also recognize costs. Flute
mojito and apple, almond fizz with amarena, patty of nori chip with olive oil, Parmesan club, hazelnut, raspberry, hazelnut candy, biscuit and hazelnut caviar, pallet hibiscus and groundnuts.
At the entrance to the left is our table. El Bulli holds surprises, those things that do not appear in the photos. The first is the head waiter, Lluis García, the head waiter, a professional from those who seem able to jump into the shoulder a restaurant. Entries arrive, cocktails, solid: the common thread seems the bitterness, the mojito almond, hazelnut to amarena, then finally play with sweetness and texture as in the case of tortilla shrimp in two versions, sponge first, then as a very thin crispy coca holding the shrimp. It is impossible to fix all the snacks and even harder to find as they may have cooked. At times you feel El Bulli on the first of food, may be simply that they float on another plane. Tortilla
shrimp won-ton of pink roses with ham and water melon, ham canapé and ginger cream with caviar caviar with hazelnut, yuzu soy wax to miso, boiled shrimp, shrimp two firings , quail with pickled carrot, tomato tartare, tiramisu, caviar, truffles, truffle drap, macaron parmesan, truffle blini, cold anenome barnacles, scallops with almond risotto, oysters with black earth Gillardeau and marrow, and ceviche lulo shellfish, taco de Oaxaca, 50% foil endive, gazpacho and ajo blanco.
A wan ton of rose petals, a truffle caviar tastes, a blini that explodes in the mouth full of fat and flavor, a taco that tastes like Mexico, leg of quail with three or four different dressings of power - " eat it up and down " - a monograph on barnacles and iodine anemones, cooked and raw endive. Each dish, a cover, each cover the beginning of a journey. Everything is good in itself makes sense, yet it seems the beginning of something, a kilometer zero gourmet spreads his fingers elsewhere. Japan, Mexico, Peru, Galicia, Andalusia, melting here and there. The more surprising is when it is not surprising-the-cooking shrimp in two because most all cases is devilishly complex. In sequences of three or four could make all the way across a letter. El Bulli is transformed into the flow of dinner is not a dinner, a number, not a restaurant but many and none seem to anyone who already knows. Capuccino
hunting, dove with blueberry cardamom risotto, rabbit ravioli with bolognese and blood, warm strawberries with hare soup, chestnuts mimetic pandang ice cream with coconut milk, sugar cube in tea and lime "Filipino", "vidre coca, profiteroles floating gin and raspberry soup cardamom ice, box of chocolates.
The last of the mutations will occur in the game and desserts, which cross the plate with warm strawberry soup hare. These dishes remind me a lesson that may not always remembered Ferrán, however to be noted for the splendid Mediterranean Taste: In the kitchen the surprise is what comes after excellence, gourmet execution. Impress think they are about forty services per person, so thousands of them up with an absolute accuracy of tastes, temperatures and presentations. A strain which seemed to me, is reflected in the face of Adria. It remains for me as the culmination of this "fall put into the dish "that is the final part of the menu, the rabbit ravioli with their blood.
El Bulli is the work of a genius, a project of such complexity that it seems impossible to extend for too many years, should be a huge personal wear look for the infinite perfection in every detail, no body or equipment that supports it. The mixture of research and development workshop that will be reflected in a network is simply the natural outcome, regardless of strenuous effort which is the service at the restaurant, to preserve the ideas, the brain. Rest the muscle to write the future. I always thought
dinner at Cala Montjoi, if ever happened "I had lost hope," would be a sort of culmination culinary staff. Nothing is further from reality, after five hours at the table I realized that this is just the beginning. I had dinner menu in itself is a universe of possibilities that only a small percentage is already written. Count in so few words the madness that I lived, to convey the experience, it is possible, but in 2010, and turning off lights, twilight, it strikes me that a good summary of what is El Bulli is his lofty box of chocolates, beautiful, delicious and surprising. Almost perfect.
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