First things first. In Spain for sixty years is not it difficult to eat well, it was hard to eat. Tradition gastronóimco entertainment was nonexistent for most. We came from little, almost nothing, just a few restaurants to suit people from a lot of money. The first notable developments came in the late 70's, a few entrepreneurs and chefs, the new Basque cuisine, "adopted and transformed the French nouvelle cuisine. The Michelin guide , lazily as usual, began to recognize Arzak, Subijana Oyarbide and Merino. Just a few dozen references in Spain.
Then came Adriá to change everything so drastically. The conception of the experience suffered a dramatic change when he set a single menu. But not a tasting menu of eight or ten dishes, such as those that existed in the French haute cuisine, but a menu of small bites, almost 40. A long series of creative tapas, deployment requires a huge effort in the kitchen and living room that probably has only been seen and will see in El Bulli.
In 2007, the crisis exploded. The creative cuisine restaurants had grown over the past fifteen years like mushrooms across the country but unfortunately its business model proved unsustainable for many of them. The excessive complexity and cost of the prescription hampered economic performance in an age where customers willing to pay over 80 euros for a tasting menu dwindled. "The natural solution? - Is that "natural? -: Create businesses to exploit alternative to the brand were born gastrobares .
The concept is simple: we in the media day in, day out, there is a tradition for tapas, and we know the products work better than traditional bars, the costs are much lower than in a restaurant and the result surprise, in that we are good- a large majority of customers. It would, finally, the link between the middle class who had never set foot in a restaurant with creative cuisine and the English gastronomic big bang. One way to capitalize achieved prestige of sacrifice and talent base that seemed to be diluted at the same rate at which Standard & Poors devalues \u200b\u200bthe qualification of the English economy. An exit to survive.
As you know, I have defended against all odds gastrobares. I always thought that most English bars offer a tiny product: Burnt oil, lack of training in the kitchen and a deal ... in short, a direct treatment. The gastrobares would be a stylized version of the tavern, bar 2.0 would solve all these problems. Unfortunately, experience is showing us that things are more complicated.
The first problem is the price . I see my friends in football, mahou mus and spend more than 30 euros per person for eating tapas. They are also clumsy people are accustomed to a shot of brandy The Sharpener free with the cake of Santiago del Lidl. The second is the lack of definition of , or rather comparative elements with concepts that we seized is it a restaurant? Is it a bar? Neither one thing nor the other. Bare tables, stools in many cases, service in a hit-and-bar, boundary conditions are not especially comfortable for the price at which we move. The third is that a bar has its own rules, no reserves, people come in droves or fails, he wants his food over the bar in haste. When cooking with some finesse and the microwave is taboo, not readily available "here you rascal, here I'll kill you." Waiting times are longer . The fourth is that in a fine dining restaurant serves 300 to 400 dishes for four hours a bar of this type that works the numbers grow exponentially, probably thousands of more or less sophisticated snacks throughout the day. The tension is going to be brutal, a trainee chef crusher, obviously, do not expect the employer for the kitchen that should be able to get some regularity and excellence at full speed. I do not think that would satisfy those customers who hope to eat at the same level as in restaurants for less money home . Finally, he begins to have many gastrobares , neotabernas or as we like to call. The competition will be tough and it is impossible to be the regular customer restaurants which fill-in sheer volume, "we must reach a wider audience .
I have no doubt that the very strength of the brand "English creative cuisine," will drive this business for a few months. The element of surprise, novelty. Another very different thing is it is something that can endure over time. The gastrobares are challenged to differentiate themselves from the traditional bar and restaurant quality by price, limbo if you are not competitive in both areas. And after all, the life bars are the reflection of a society, have sawdust, paper napkins, toothpicks and serve Carajillo and sun because we like them, are adapted to our customs and pockets as our ass to the chair in which we see on TV. In the coming years we will see if this great mass of the target now cooks English leading the battered middle class, an increasingly impoverished Spain-buy idea. There are play rooms.
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